Refer to the table below to know about when to do what calibration to ensure your 3D printer works properly.
Your 3D printer prints on the build plate (under which lies the heated bed) nearly the same way people build houses on the ground. Therefore, whether or not the heated bed is level matters significantly to the first layer adhesion and the subsequent building-up process of the print.
The mechanism of Heated Bed Leveling runs like this:
Artisan supports two leveling methods (Auto and Manual) and two advanced leveling settings (Heated Leveling and Calibration Grid). In general, we recommend the Auto Mode because of its quick and hands-free experience. If the first layer adhesion turns out not as expected after the heated bed is leveled in Auto Mode, you can enable Heated Leveling, choose a more-point calibration grid type, or manually level the bed.
By default, Artisan levels the bed with the following settings:
Before doing the Heated Bed Leveling, ensure that the surface of both nozzles is clean.
The toolhead will automatically probe and obtain data for specific calibration points on the 3D printing platform to adjust the movement of the toolhead accordingly during printing.
To level the heated bed automatically:
The heated bed and nozzles will be heated during leveling. Do NOT touch their hot surfaces with bare hands.
You can manually control the toolhead to probe and obtain data for specific calibration points on the 3D printing platform. The movement of the two nozzles will be adjusted accordingly during printing.
To manually level the heated bed:
Heated Leveling can simulate the real printing scenario and therefore achieve better leveling results. When enabled, the bed will be heated to a specified temperature before the leveling starts.
To enable Heated Leveling:
To disable Heated Leveling, set the heated bed temperature as under the indoor temperature, such as zero.
Th Heated Leveling can only be enabled in Auto Mode, as the hot bed surface could burn your hands during manual calibration.
Artisan supports three types of calibration grid, made up respectively of 9 (3×3), 25 (5×5), or 81 (9×9) points.
The more points your 3D printer probes, the more precise data your 3D printer gets, the better the leveling results, and the more likely the first layer is to adhere to the build plate.
To set the calibration grid type:
Z offset refers to the distance between the nozzle and the build plate. Heated Bed Leveling ensures the same Z offset when the toolhead moves above the build plate during printing, while Z Offset Calibration ensures that this consistent Z offset contributes to successful prints.
Artisan supports two Z offset calibrating methods (Auto and Manual). We recommend the Auto Mode because of its quick and hands-free experience.
Before doing the Z Offset Calibration, ensure that the surface of both nozzles is clean.
The left and right nozzle will touch the glass build plate and calibrate their Z offset automatically.
To calibrate the Z offset automatically:
When you find the result of Auto Mode is inaccurate, you can do Sensor Calibration to calibrate the smart sensor’s travel distance and improve the accuracy of Auto Z Offset Calibration.
To calibrate the smart sensor:
You can manually control the left and right nozzles to move and calibrate their Z offsets.
To calibrate the Z offset manually:
The X and Y offset refers to the distance between the two nozzles in the X and Y orientations. Calibrating the X and Y offset can achieve the optimal print quality of both nozzles in the horizontal direction and avoid crossovers between different colors and materials.
The XY Offset Calibration adopts a dynamic compensation method, similar to the one used in the Heated Bed Leveling. It does not eliminate the real physical X and Y offsets between the two nozzles; instead, the machine obtains the offset data by your choice of the best pair of line in the printed calibration models, and make real-time adjustments to the toolhead movement to compensate for the offset.
The following graphic shows how the location of the best pair of lines relates to the real XY offsets.
Before doing the XY Offset Calibration, ensure that the glass build plate is clean.
To calibrate the XY Offset: